We arrived in Tokyo late afternoon and opted for a taxi cab to the hotel so we didn’t have to navigate central Tokyo with luggage, it was the right decision. We had a chance to see Tokyo as we wound through town to the Park Hyatt. This hotel has been on Dave’s bucket list for years, and it was simply lovely. The lobby was on the 42 floor and when you walked off the elevator, you walked directly into an atrium, we literally felt like we were in the clouds. And every afternoon there was a musician singing with an acoustic guitar. It was the perfect contrast to the busy hot streets of Tokyo. We dropped our things and walked across to the Shinjuku Central Park and stumbled upon the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building where they were projecting a giant game of Pacman on the side of it. It was a totally appropriate intro to tech forward Tokyo. We walked near Shinjuku Station (the largest train station in the world, it descends floors and floors underground) where the streets were bustling and alleyways were full of people and scents and food found at tiny restaurants and bars. We found a restaurant upstairs that served gyoza in bulk, like our order had 50+ and the kids finished every last one. The adults shared shrimp friend rice, tempura, and other tasty meals. We walked by 7-11 on our way home where grandpa bought ice creams for everyone. Dave and I had a glass of wine in the hotel lounge and we called it a day.
We had breakfast the following morning in the lower level of our hotel. I had touched on this a bit earlier, but one of the interesting and surprising things about Tokyo is its underground. In order for the city to support itself thousands of feet above ground, they need underground support and there is a whole life below ground, shops, restaurants, shortcuts, commuters, tourists, etc. It is so innovative, and there is so much more than meets the eye. Anyway, we had breakfast and then walked my dad to Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, and the rest of us walked to Shinjuku Station where we immediately got lost and overwhelmed, so we found the taxi stand and went to the Asakusa neighborhood. Our first stop was Nakimise, a covered shopping street where the kids instantly spotted a McDonalds. Dave and I had other visions, so we popped into Maguro-Bito (across the street from McDonalds) for some of our favorite sushi and sake in Japan. It was under the radar, but fast and fresh and simply delicious. I ordered a saki and when she poured it, she overflowed the glass into a surrounding box. It caught me by surprise, so I googled it :). It signifies the highest form of hospitality and gratitude for your presence. So many things signify something greater in Japan and are tied into their dominant religion of Buddhism and Shintoism which are religions intertwined, many Japanese people live by the saying “Born Shinto, die Buddhist.” Shinto is the present while Buddhism is the afterlife. It was interesting to see the meaning and symbolism behind things and how it's all connected. We found the kids after our sushi and sake date, and walked to the Senso-ji Pagoda and to the old time fair where the kids had sno cones, ice cream, and the girls made chop sticks, a highlight., We took a cab back and met my dad for dinner at Shogun Burger located in Shinjuki, about a 15 minute walk from our hotel. Shogun Burger was a restaurant that Sully had researched and wanted to visit, he was convinced it had a Michelin Star, alas, it was fast food. But it was still fun and much friendlier on our credit cards. It was another full and great day.
The following day, we (figured out the train!!!) and made our way to the Imperial Palace and walked around the garden which is complimented with stone walls and moats. We were hot and hungry and found a western restaurant called Grand Kitchen with an underground terrace. Between the food and the Japanese ladies at lunch (my dad took a selfie with them, omg, I could have died), it was a great break from the day and heat. We opted to find a hop on/hop off bus and it was mostly a failure (technology wasn’t great, especially for my dad). My dad got off at Shinjuku Station and made his way back to the hotel and we went on to Shibuya. The neighborhood was bustling with trendy shops and boutiques and cafes. We wandered into some as we made our way to Shibuya Crossing, the busiest intersection in the world. We grabbed a Starbucks on the corner and watched the activity below before taking the train back to Shinjuku Station. The train was an experience in itself, we didn’t anticipate how incredibly crowded it would be (it was rush hour, oops). But we found the direction to go and when the doors opened, we casually walked in and it just kept filling and filling, and when you couldn’t possibly add anymore, more jammed and in and then the last one on, we were all gently shoved in, for safety. We didn't know about any of this and it honestly felt crazy and chaotic. We safely made our way back and fed the kids Subway and went to Naminori Sushi, a small 12 person restaurant stall under the hotel next door. The husband was the chef and the son of a fisherman and the wife served the food. It was fantastic. The kids joined us for dessert (the mango cake was to die for) in the lobby at the Park Hyatt and Dave and I had a glass of wine before bed.
We ventured out to Toyosu Market, the new fish market the following day. Most of the happenings happen before 5am when they sell massive tunas to local chefs or export them to other countries. We were able to wander around, see some of the clean up, and read some placards. We went to the Fruit and Vegetable Building where they were sorting produce and we could watch overhead. We had lunch at Toyosu Senkyaku Banria food market where we had chicken tempura, soba noodles, and I had the best wagyu ramen (and all of the kids ate off my plate). My dad made his way back to the hotel and we ventured on to Greta’s choice, Team Lab Planets, an immersive digital art museum, which was incredible, you walk through water features, with digital coy fish swimming with you, lay on the ground as flowers float around you, travel through a rooms of colors and lights and music. We were all really into the experience and would absolutely recommend it. We finally made our way to Piper’s choice, Unko, a poop museum, located in a mall. :/. It was very loud with wound up and excited Japanese ladies screaming and cheering. To top it off, we happened to visit while a preschool group was there, and in a stark contrast to the quiet and disciplined nature of the Japanese people, these kids were encouraged to scream loud to release the poop. It was more than I could handle, I made my way to the busy hallway while Piper swindled Dave in the gift shop. We finally made our way back and went to Yakiniku Motoyama Shinjuku for yakiniku, which simply means “grilled meat.” You cook bite-sized pieces of grilled meat and vegetables on a tabletop grill over an open flame. It was interactive and delicious. We all got a kick out of it, especially my dad. We covered a lot of ground and had a good day.
Our final day was spent in Ginza, the home to the most posh shopping brands, restaurants, and galeries. We found the 8 story Uniquolo and bought a few items for the kids. My dad had had enough early on, so he went on to find a tour of a government building. We pushed on to Itoya, the most incredible stationary store, probably in the world (in my opinion). I wandered though each floor exploring, taking my time, and following my nose while Dave took the kids to the rooftop for a brownie and a drink. I picked out my favorite souvenirs and gifts while we were there. I honestly could have stayed for hours. Fun fact, there is a hydroponic vertical farm on the 11th floor where they grow greens. I finally joined them at Cafe Stylo on the top floor and we took our time with a glass of wine while overlooking Ginza from the 12th floor. By the time we left, the kids had plenty of time to research cologne for Sully and before we knew it, we were in Versace. Sully worked with the sales man and was giddy/excited when he finally made his choice. We arrived back at Shinjuku Station and landed in the Onitusuku Tiger store for shoes for the girls (it is a Japanese staple, after all). We took a moment to regroup in the hotel and Sully showed my dad his new cologne and we all got a kick out of his reaction (‘it smells just like my old spice!’), and finally, we had dinner in the lovely lobby and had an impromptu 86th birthday celebration for my dad. When we asked him his highlight from the day, he put his arms in the air to highlight the skyline surrounding the lobby and said, "I'm here in Japan with my family, what more could you ask for…eat your hearts out!” What a gift.
Our travel day was about as smooth as possible. We took the 1.5 hour shuttle to Narita, had a meal in the travel lounge, and before we knew it, we were on the runway. As the aircraft marshallers completed their tasks, they bowed in honor of the flight and passengers. It was a lovely way to end the journey. We had exactly the amount of time we needed in Denver, not a moment more (yikes) and made it home.
What a fantastic adventure it was. I have so many take-aways and know I will miss many, but some of the worthy mentions begin with their discipline as a culture. They are quiet, clean, and respectful, which leads to a well run and incredibly clean country. I loved the order and the structure. We took the time at the end of each day to reflect on a memory or a highlight which I loved to capture. I will forever cherish the memories we made with my dad.
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| The hotel atrium. |
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| Shinjuku Central Park |
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| Food alleys. |
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| Near the train station. |
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| Moody glass of wine. |
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| Lunch in Asakusa |
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Senso-ji Pagoda
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Best treats.
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| Sno Cones |
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| Chop stick session. |
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| Waiting for the girls in the shade. |
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| Nakimise Street |
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| Back at the hotel for sunset. |
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| Shogun Burger |
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Burgers all around!
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